He was working in anticipation of several regulars who'd arrive like clockwork with a setting sun on their backs as they pushed through the west-facing, front door.

The rays often fell across the spotless, vintage bar. Placing the pre-chilled stemware in front of all, the bartender strained Beefeaters Gin from the cocktail shaker. It rolled over the plump Jurin olives and into the eager glasses. The customers would thank the bartender, then toast, and, finally, sip heartily what they called "Shadow Martinis." It was pure ceremony.

Withstanding the wash of trend and fashion, the Truckee Hotel continues to prove fertile ground for that most American of alcohol mixologies, the martini. Today, Moody's Bistro and Lounge occupies the same way-station's bottom floor and Moody's own versions of the martini are dispensed to a thirsty clientele. Moody's customers are not alone.

"Martinis have come back into popularity, especially at nice dinner houses where guests are typically on holiday and want something special to start the evening," explains Stephanie Bilowich of Tahoe City's River Grill. "The martini usually falls in that category. If made traditionally, its pure alcohol that has a kick. Served in a stem or attractive glass it has a distinguished look."

Dry, sharp, and appetite whetting, it's easy to see how the earnest drinker can acquire a taste for the martini. The drink's earliest recipe dates back to 1862. It was first published in Professor Jerry Thomas's, Bon Vivant's Companion or How to Mix Drinks. Called the "Martinez Cocktail," it required "one pony of Old Tom Gin, one wineglass of vermouth, over ice with a dash of bitters."

Through the years the cocktail became progressively drier. By the time it was referred to just as a martini, it had become a mixture of equal parts gin and dry vermouth, stirred briskly with large pieces of ice and strained into an appropriate glass.

For twenty years after the repeal of Prohibition the standard recipe was four parts gin to one part dry vermouth. The ratio gradually crept up to 15 to one, and eventually to the foolishness of chilled gin being called a martini because it was served in a cocktail glass.

Today, at Lake Tahoe, as just across the country, martinis no longer automatically mean gin, but typically vodka. A drop, if that, of dry vermouth is added and the cocktail is always shaken, never stirred.

Vodka and gin, both neutral spirits (neither has to be aged), were once only delicately flavored with juniper and aromatics. Now both vodka and gin come in flavored varieties which means they have infusions of herbs, gasses, leaves, spices, or and seeds.

So where does one find a "classic" martini? During the on-site research for this exhausting samizdat, your keen reporter covered the 75 miles around Lake Tahoe, including Truckee. In a search for truth, he visited over two-dozen cocktail lounges.

Therein, martinis were ordered and judged on alchemy of appearance, originality, presentation, and, of course, taste. Added into the evaluation was a dollop of on-site decor, a dash of the atmosphere, and the overall savvy of the resident bartender who continues to tend the flame.

Here is a sampling of what the research uncovered, extracted from the many pages of notes not taken:
--A heavy pour of Ketel One Vodka, shaken professionally and served in a 10-ounce stem, is a masterstroke.
--"Appletini" is Applefest Liqueur plus Grey Goose Vodka served with an apple slice garnish, a signature drink.
--This ice cold, Skyy Vodka martini made my day.
--The crew proudly offered over two-dozen varieties of the martini, perhaps a regional record.
--The atmosphere, part hama'aina, or beach house, and part rustic, mountain lodge, seems to have the look and fevered pitch of a prohibition speakeasy. An eclectic crowd of old-time locals, die-hard regulars, fledgling collegians, intrepid SoMa types, and long hairs makes up the party. The bartender mixed an alluring Emerald Bay martini: Barcardi Coconut Rum with an ounce of Hpynotiq, a French tropical, fruit-infused liqueur.
--This is a sight to see. A "Mangotini" is Pearl Vodka and mango juice with a splash of triple sec, garnished with an orange wedge.
--A "Peppertini" is Gordon's Gin or Vodka soaked with
hot chili peppers.
--A "Razaretto" is Van Gogh Raspberry Vodka and Disaronno Amaretto finished off with a wedge of lime.
--The "Effen" martini is served with a blue cheese stuffed
olive that can really sink a ship.
--Here I have found a classic martini featuring Hendrick's Cucumber and Rose Pedal infused Gin. This one is only for the adventurous!
--The "Seedless Watermelon" has a double pour of watermelon liqueur, Absolut Kurant Vodka, and a splash of 7-up.
--This place offers a menu of 102 special martinis (new regional record), each served in an individual martini shaker. With an inventory of 34 vodkas and 14 gins at two bars, it is easy to find concoctions such as the "French Kiss Martini" (Stoli Ohranj Vodka, the aperitif Lillet , garnished with an orange slice); and the "Love Potion #9" (Ketel One Vodka and a kiss of Chambord).

Martini madness.